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Dive Bar Chronicles #6: The Cat’s Meow – St. Louis, MO

1 Apr

The best way to make friends at a dive is just be nice, pay cash, tip well and be you. You don’t necessarily need to be entertaining, impressive, or engaging. Don’t need to to be flashy or even buy anyone a drink. Just roll with the vibes, be honest, and make good conversation. That’s it, really.

Never have I ever regretted a small-talk, dive bar conversation more than the one I had at the Cat’s Meow in St. Louis that could have altered the course of my life greatly. Maybe it did.

I was in St. Louis on business. It was late 2019, and I was going on four weeks unemployed. I was chasing job leads in three states, so tension was high. With the help of a good friend, I’d landed a coffee-interview with a news director at the top TV News station in town about an open position. Went well. Mission accomplished. Time to relax and see some St. Louis. So naturally, we headed toward the Anheuser Busch Brewery. But I’ll be darned if they didn’t have a school kids & seniors 10 a.m. tour.  tours don’t start until 11.

Sourcing bars near the brewery that were open that early was an easy task. This was a Budweiser town, through and through, and one that blew up in population during the days of corner taverns and daily barrel deliveries. We found one called The Cat’s Meow that was close by and been open since 7. Great spot to pre-game the brewery tour, right?

Bingo. Only Bud products on tap, and you’re crazy to drink anything else at a bar so close to its source. No frills. Except the dozens of styles of Mardi Gras beads hanging behind the bar for sale. But those arent as much frills as they are obligatory Soulard souvenirs. 

One regular was sitting at the end of the bar chatting up the woman behind the bar. The bartender was a 7 a.m. classic. The kind that called ya hon and refilled your mug when it was ¼ full mid-rant about the closing shifters. 

The cat theme was subtle and varied in levels of taste. The restroom doors were A+. I remember most of the famous cats being represented in some way or another. Garfield, Felix and the likes. I took some pictures. I’d have probably taken more if not for the series of events that happened next. 

The alcoholic at the end of the bar came in from a cigarette. He was a 5’10 clean cut but ostentatiously desheveled. His hair was combed and neat, but he was wearing a pulled from the hamper polo and ratty flip flops. He started chatting us up. It wasn’t the usual, “How ya doin? Where ya from?” or even “Did ya see the Cardinals game last night?”

This guy ranted bombastically about his drinking and partying, making it sound like he was a very important and well connected person. Every other sentence was about a U.S. Senator or Lake Geneva or a private box at the Kentucky Derby. Real braggadocios stuff, bordering on the totally unbelievable. 

I’d cautiously entertain his wild stories, nodding and sometimes indirectly prodding when I felt he was stretching the truth a bit. I was familiar, albeit sometimes repulsed by, the people, places and privileges he was talking about. Anybody who brags that big, unprovoked and unabashed, I am more than a little skeptical of. Then he asked about me, why I was in town. 

After easing in with a beer, I’m usually as unguarded as a 7-footer beyond the 3-pt line while I’m at dive bars. It’s part of their charm. You can be yourself. Or whoever you want to be. Minimize or aggrandize yourself. Especially a dive you know there’s a good chance you’ll never visit again in your life? What did I have to lose by telling the truth? Plus, this guy seemed politically connected in Missouri and beyond. Maybe he turns into a source in my reporting career?

“I’m here to interview for a TV reporting job at KBBL Channel 6,” I told him.

“Oh no shit. So who did you interview with? Do you know so-and-so?” he asked.

I had no idea who he was talking about, but he claimed he was a producer behind the scenes and a good friend of his. As the loudmouth got up and walked outside and grabbed a cigarette, I googled the name of the person he was talking about at the station. Sure enough, he wasn’t making him up. He was real. 

“You know what, let’s give him a call!” he said.

“Oh no, I don’t think so. He’s probably in production meetings…” I hurriedly tried to shoot down the idea any way I could. 

You see, my interview was more of a coffee meeting, not a formal interview. If it went well, I’d be on the shortlist for the station to call me whenever one of their reporters moved on. That’s how that business works sometimes. A foot in the door goes a long way. But would that door be quickly shut if this producer got a random call from his alcoholic playboy friend stumping for a kid looking for a position that isn’t even open, while they’re both at a bar at 10:15 in the morning? 

“Oh here, I got his number!” he said.

My heart sank to the floor as I heard the dial tone ringing. WHAT THE HELL WAS HE DOING? MY FATE IS IN THIS DRUNK’S HANDS. I’M TOAST.

“Yeah, hey I got someone who wants to speak with ya… Ya, hear he is,” he said, and hands me the phone.

“H-H-Hello?” I don’t know what else I would have said.

“Hey, this is Mike, whatsup? I stepped out of a meeting.” the voice said.

“Uhh hey, this is Jake Berent. I had a meeting with, um, one of your anchors today, so…. I was just sitting here. I didn’t ask him to call y–” I was cut off.

“Cool. Well yeah, just send me an email man. I gotta hop back in to this meeting,” he diffused and deferred. 

“Ok. Great!” I said, never before with such dread and defeat. 

I handed back the phone and immediately wanted to follow it up with a punch to the face. Who was this fucking jagoff? Who does that? Just plays with people’s professional careers at 10 in the morning while kickstarting their 72-hour bender? 

I was mortified I’d lost the job before I even had a chance to get it. By now the brewery was open, but I’d lost my appetite for even that. The whole purpose of the trip was blown up because of some douche. 

We decided to still do the brewery to get our minds off what had just happened. That helped. Free beer and the smell of fresh horseshit, almost as fresh as the heaping pile we were just shoveled. I still love gawking through the Anhieser-Busch gift shop and making up histories for each Bud Bowl game. Have since I was a kid. But it felt a little different. This felt like it was 4th & Goal at Bud Bowl VII, and I got tricked by Budweiser’s ‘ol razzle dazzle bottle roll trick play. Humiliating loss. Just demoralizing for the Bud Light squad.

However things sorted out, it appears I was spared of the cosmic interference from a chaotic intruder. A week later I was offered a vacation relief reporter position at the station, a role I ultimately turned down for a better offer.

Dive Bar Chronicles #5: The Philosopher’s Club – San Francisco, CA

22 Feb

We could hit one more bar on our way out of town, or get to the airport early. Since we were all the way on the West Coast we opted to go for the one. We arrived at the Philosopher’s Club in San Francisco’s West Portal neighborhood. A fella a few stools over from us overheard our San Fran-quest to hit a bunch of iconic bars, so we rattled off the other places on our list. 

“Ehh you don’t need to go there. It’s a fag bar,” a bar patron deterred. 

I was a bit taken aback. I wasn’t expecting any LGBTQ hate in San Francisco, a city with such a history of Pride. So I nodded politely and sipped my Anchor beer.

The Philosopher’s Club in San Francisco was on my list of places I had to stop while in town, and despite the click-baity, rage-bait lede, it was a fantastic bar. I just use that to point out for y’all to realize, how far you think we’ve come, we’ve bit a ways to go. 

I’d actually circled the Philosopher’s Club high on my list to of bars to visit (as I did Twin Peaks, the pub the barstool bigot bemoaned about), but because it was an outlier on our weekend concerned with A’s games and Anchor beer, we’d have to carve a route to get there. 

The Philosopher’s club got her name in the 1930’s when it opened after Prohibition. I didn’t catch the exact origin of the name, but I think it’s fair to assume it’s a dig at the teetotalers who just lost the battle for booze. 

The entrance is cavernous, carved right out of the winding hillsides of West Portal. The arched awning and stone-lined doorway lead you into one of the best places to watch (and lay some money down on) the Niners while being judged by 32 of the world’s greatest thinkers. Though we were there on a summer Friday, we could tell that the Philosopher’s club was really a place that shines on Sundays, and the mural only enhances the atmospheric pressure.

The famed mural at Philosopher’s club features nearly three dozen of the greatest thinkers in the recorded history of mankind. Freud. Gandhi. Socrates. Lao Tzu. Whole gang is here. We imagine gamedays. Pitchers and nachos. Wall-to-wall 49ers fans. And with its history as a numbers room, the full spectrum of human emotions is observed by philosophers, who peer down as if in a gallery in an hospital’s operating room.

Imagine you look up in despair toward Nietszche pointing and laughing yet another lost halftime parlay (and Joseph Campbell encouraging you to double down on the 2nd Half over). And if you don’t get that drunk, surely the regulars will roast your Brock Purdy stanning-ass.

We ordered a couple Anchors’ on draft and plopped our guide on the bartop. The 138-page book that steered our barcrawl had guided us to some of San Francisco’s greatest dive bars. Why not trust it for one (or two) more hurrah’s before we left town. 

And boy, the Philly, as the cool kids call it, did not disappoint. 

The bartender hadn’t the slightest idea that the bar was in the book. Or that the book even existed. He pulled out his cheaters and flipped through the entry. Then he began to flip through the book and give us the 3 line history of every bar he’d wound up in at one time or another. He moved page to page feverishly, and then through the index. Rapid fire. Quickly spitting out names, and memories, and “My fuck!”’s. Tales of wine, women and song. The good, the bad and the ugly. He was taking us on a tour of San Francisco dives at a mile a minute. It was that kind of way locals speak when you ask them about their favorite part of their town and they yammer gleefully for the next hour. And his favorite part of San Francisco was its bars. And that was quickly becoming my favorite part of it too. 

He flipped back to the Philosopher’s Club entry of J.K. Dineen’s High Spirits: Legacy Bars of San Francisco.

“Hey, there’s Dick!” he exclaimed. “I gotta show him this. That picture’s right over there. Oh wow!’

I strolled over to the bright side of the bar and sure enough, the same picture in the book was hanging on the wall. Dick Donahue grew up blocks from the bar and bought it a while back. To be honest, I didn’t know San Francisco had such a rich pub & tavern history going into the trip. I’d picked up John Barleycorn for the trip, but hardly had time to read it on the trip. The city’s role as a major port in the west during the last 200 years and the mass Irish immigration, that’s the perfect storm for neighborhood pubs like the Philly. 

We met Dick and he could not have been more of a gracious guy. Chatted with us, bought us a round and gave me a free poster of the Philosopher’s Club mural. 

I was quietly impressed with the selection of philosophers selected. In High Spirits, the mural’s artist (and bar’s co-owner) Deborah Sullivan said “I wanted someone of every culture, ethnicity” to “give meaning to the bar’s name.” One of those connections I absolutely loved was the fact that she included one of the bar’s patrons in the mural: Jacob Needleman, who taught philosophy at nearby San Francisco State University for 50 years and stops by the bar on occasion. 

Mother Jones, Bob Dylan, and Martin Luther King are my favorite philosophers to make the cut. 

Not in love with John Lennon making the cut. I’d have added Kurt Vonegut or maybe Fred Hampton. I’m sure you have you deletions and additions you’d like to see too. 

Almost as impressive as the mural was their wall of San Francisco Giants bobbleheads. They must have had every giveaway bobble since the practice became commonplace in the late 1990s. 

“Hey, what’s that White Sox player doing up there?” I exclaimed, seeing a pinstriped player in what looked like the 1919 “Black Sox” home uniforms. 

“Nah. Seals,” the bartender said after grabbing his cheaters and blowing the dust off the bobble’s base.

I think I was seeing things that I wanted to see. I wanted to see a connection to my White Sox. The place felt like such a South Side bar, down to the troughed urinals, that I thought it was home. Sure felt like it, which is hard to do 2,600 miles from Midway.

But I’ll leave the psychoanalysis to Freud. Lord knows he’s sick of picking apart 49ers fans.

The Dive Bar Chronicles #4: Bernie’s – Homer, Mich.

18 Aug

I can’t think of a better time to aimlessly stumble upon a small town other than during that town’s big summer festival. Whether it’s in honor of major local crop, founding ethnicity or favorite holiday, it’s always a hoot and holler that brings out every reveler from age 8 to 80. Everybody and their cousin shows up. It’s like a giant family reunion.

Shan and I set course for another dive on the map, when the backroads of South Central Michigan took us through the quaint little town of Homer, population 1,640. A half hour from the nearest town of 10,000. We found ourselves smack dab in the middle of Homer Fest. Continue reading

The Dive Bar Chronicles #3: O’Sullivan’s Italian Pub – Fort Wayne, Ind.

17 Jan

The last time you took a shot at a bar, do you remember what was going through your mind? Besides the excitement or disgust at the selected liquor, what were you thinking about? Gratitude towards the person who bought you the shot. Fear that this shot is going to put you over the edge. Nerves since you know there’s only one song in front of yours before you have to go up and sing Mariah Carey karaoke.

During that swift motion to lift your chin and turn your face towards the sky, do you ever get a glimpse of the ceiling? No? Well, why would you. Unless you’re at O’Sullivan’s Italian Pub in Fort Wayne, Indiana. Then you’ll probably do a double take and once you swallow that Fireball, you look back up because you think you just saw a slew of bras hanging from the ceiling. Yep. Oh, look there’s some more. Hey another bunch over above the bar. More in the corner. Hmph. Continue reading

The Dive Bar Chronicles #2: Ziggy’s Side Door Pub & Deli

18 Oct

 

The side door is a significant feature of a house’s construction and security. The front door is the filter, the first line of defense. No one who has never been to your house before is going to just walk around to a side door. If you’re family, you always come in the side door or the back door, not the front door. The side door is for frequent visitors. You still have to wipe your feet when you come in, but you have the wonderful opportunity to surprise your hosts. They see you coming down the driveway and wonder who the hell is that in my yard? Then you pop in the back door and are greeted by a cold beer and a hey howya doin. Continue reading

The Dive Bar Chronicles #1: Abick’s – Detroit

27 Sep

img_3928Anyplace that opens at 9:00am is a must-stop in my book. If they’re open at 9:00am, there must be some sort of crowd that comes in that early. 3rd shifters? Tourists? Neighborhood drunks? Or maybe not. Maybe the owner just wakes up and hangs out in the bar all day, then goes to bed after last call. The Tigers had a day game, and that made it OK to have a beer at 9:00am, and that made Abick’s the best option. Continue reading

The Dive Bar Chronicles

4 Sep

It’s really hard to put into words what makes a good dive bar. It’s kind of like the intangibles you hear football guys talk about all the time. Grit, toughness, perception etc. But another part of has so much to do with the cosmetics of a joint. How dim are the lights? Does it have a great name? How much of a hole-in-the-wall are we talking about? Still, you could say it’s what’s inside that counts. The regulars. Juke box and pool table. Busch Light on tap. No dive bar is the same. Yet, they’re all the same. All part of a wonderful American register of treasured drinking establishments.

I’m going to chronicle my time at dives in hopes of inspiring you all to simply see the world around you, every unkempt corner of it. Continue reading